What's in the Box
ReefMaster Digital DC310, MGI PhotoSuite III and Photo Vista software, USB cable to connect and download pictures, Video cable to attach and view pictures on a TV, Care Kit with anti-fog desiccant cartridges, Full color Quick Guide, Soft case for inner camera

Product Description
Advanced Diver PRO Set consists of Reefmaster DC310 3.3 mp Digital camera with Advanced-Dive controls and External Flash

Product Description
The SeaLife ReefMaster DC310 ProSet is specifically designed for divers to take brighter, colorful pictures underwater. SeaLife's unique Land & Sea exposure modes optimize picture quality in low-light conditions. By adding the SeaLife External Flash (SL960), even brighter more colorful images can be captured at greater depths and under adverse conditions. The DC310, 3.3 mp camera is compact and fully rubber-armored for ruggedness and comfortable handling to a depth of 200 feet. The One-Button-Operation allows even the novice to take great pictures, while the expert can access all Advanced-Dive controls of the DC310 while underwater. The One-Button-Operation also allows divers to review and instantly delete a picture by just another push of the shutter button while prompted. The DC310 also incorporates the Quick Review feature as well as being totally expandable with all SeaLife accessories. A second flash can be mounted as well.

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Product Reviews:

         
Recommend against this camera, January 16, 2006
Reviewer: Jennifer Widom
I strongly recommend against buying a SeaLife ReefMaster digital underwater camera. While their low-end underwater film cameras were a good buy, their digital cameras are not.
I purchased a SeaLife digital-camera/housing combination for over $400, only to discover later that the camera included in the package is a relabeling of the lowest-end, poorest-quality digital camera available: a $60 Vivitar not even sold by Vivitar any longer. The camera has problems with very basic functions (see flash discussion below) and consumes batteries at 3-4 times the rate of "normal" low-end digital cameras. These days you're far better off buying one of the many waterproof housings available separately from your digital camera: you'll pay much less overall and end up with a much higher-quality setup.
In addition, SeaLife customer service is problematic. I emailed a question about what turns out to be an undocumented flaw in the flash functioning of their cameras. In the initial series of interactions they cut-and-paste generic answers to questions that were clearly not the one I'd asked. Perhaps they were trying to hide the flaw or were simply not reading my email. Once they finally acknowledged the flaw they did not reply to follow-up questions.
Again, I recommend against the SeaLife ReefMaster.
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Great Picture Quality, Rugged Construction, Battery Glutton, June 7, 2005
Reviewer: Michael Fuchs
The case is extraordinarily strong, thick, high impact plastic with high quality seals and strong hinges. The closure latches on the camera case and external flash are positive, strong, and are well designed to prevent snagging. I was impressed that virtually every control on the camera is available outside the water-tight case via spring-loaded buttons. The one caveat is that the buttons on the watertight case are not labeled, so you have to "know" the camera pretty well before diving. On the other hand, the icon labels on most digital cameras are not all that intuitive anyway, and SeaLife provides a waterproof rubber quick reference "card" on a cord.

When you open the robust water-tight case the first time, you are likely to be disappointed - inside is this tiny, black traditional-looking digital camera body. Don't be. The 3.3mp resolution gives great pictures for all but the most exacting photographers. You can select 2048x1536, 1024x768, or 640x480 image size. You can also select JPEG picture quality. The good news / bad news issue is that the camera is powered by 2 AA batteries. That makes power cheap and easy to replace. However the camera eats batteries a mile a minute. With alkaline batteries you will have to shut the camera off for several minutes after every 10-20 pictures to let the batteries recover. Overall battery life is not too bad. I've taken 200 pictures on one set, but over a long period of time. As with most digital cameras, you get faster recovery and longer shooting time from rechargable batteries. For those used-to 35mm cameras, also realize the relatively long time between shots - that smiling barracuda will be long gone by the time you can click that shutter a second time. A final nit-pick: no date/time memory when you open the battery compartment, which is also how you get to the SD card slot, so you have to reset the date & time a lot.

With the highest resolution and quality settings, you will get 250-300 or more pictures on a 256mb SD memory card. But this is my major warning: THERE ARE COMPATIBILITY PROBLEMS WITH CERTAIN SD CARD BRANDS. I was very upset to find 1 in 10 pictures corrupted - consistent over 300+ shots on two different cards over multiple dives and dry land photography. It was especially insidious since the thumbnail views on the LCD look perfect. But when you upload the full size pictures to the PC, 1 in 10 looked like it had been cut up with scissors and glued back together wrong. I returned the camera for testing and repair and got it back "no trouble found", with an explanation that there are subtle engineering differences between SD makers, and there were certain ones that just didn't work well with this camera. They didn't say it was a flaw in the SD cards, and that they would work fine in other electronics. I never had this problem with my other camera which uses Smartmedia cards. But, sure enough, I set aside the Lexar cards and tried two other manufacturers and the camera has performed flawlessly. Lesson learned: spend time familiarizing yourself with, and testing the heck out of your digital camera before you go on those once-in-a-lifetime dives in Hawaii.

Back underwater, realize you do not have access to the camera's viewfinder. You have an external target sight which is fine for wide compositions. Then you have the LCD. You can control the brightness of the LCD, and it's a crisp, clear image. But unless you're shooting only at night, the LCD viewer Hood is not optional, you need to be looking down that tunnel to see the LCD. Another point about battery life underwater: Even though the water-tight case holds (at least) 2 desiccant cartridges to keep the interior dry, the instructions recommend shutting the camera off as much as possible to prevent the camera from warming up enough to cause condensation on the inside of the case lens window. This has never happened to me, and it's worth noting that there is an additional rubber gasket that seals the camera lens to the case window isolating it further from the rest of the water-tight case.

I originally used the camera with its built-in flash. My opinion: unless you are only shooting in crystal clear water on clear sunny days, you won't be satisfied. It's convenient, sure. But aside from darker pictures, digital images get "grainy" fast if the subject is not well lit. The external flash (you can actually attach two) is very well designed, the same sturdy construction as the camera case. The flash head used 4 AA batteries (cheap and simple) and is completely self-contained. The "connection" to the camera is based on a light sensor and a plastic reflector that bounces the internal flash up at the external head. When the external flash sees the camera flash, it fires. The external light is powerful and gives wide coverage and the increased lens angle helps cut down on picking up clutter. The head sits on a strong support arm connected to the camera case, and the arm itself is made of 8 stiff joints covered by a thick, comfortable foam handle which allows for a wide range of placement possibilities

I have been extremely happy with this unit, particularly once I solved my memory card problems and bought the external flash. I highly recommend it.

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